Spotted in early 2025 for sale in Sydney Australia, this ST170 was asking $8k AUD.. Low Ks and looks in good order.. The seller noted the following at the time of sale: 

Here’s the list of work performed:

Firstly, the check engine light is off - as we worked through the issues with the car not performing, it made no sense that the light was off - turns out the light globe was blown! Maybe it was over-worked with the 2-3 main reasons why they’re on with the ST170! I’ll start with these ones for you:

• IMRC - the troublesome variable inlet manifold runner control unit has been refreshed by Brad Nichols in the UK and refitted. This required some mending of the cable attachment part in the process. Those that say these are easy to replace - yeah, if you like swearing a lot!

• Timing - the variable valve timing on these can be a bit tricky and took us two goes to get it right. First mechanic had best intentions, but it’s not hard to get it wrong without the right timing kit. I have the right timing kit now, so it’s yours to have with the car, and is now set correctly.

• As such, all of the timing parts have been replaced: timing belt, all pulleys (Bosch) and rocker cover gasket (Mahle). Spark plugs (NGK) all replaced at the same time.

• Both O2 sensors have been replaced (NGK)

• Pretty much a full cooling system replacement from the right thermostat housing (with the hole for the thermostat!), thermostat (Febi Bilstein), water pump, radiator, all pipework, the troublesome coolant linkage pipe (genuine Ford - getting hard to source nowadays), coolant reservoir (genuine Ford), and Castrol red coolant

• PCV system replaced. PCV Valve and elbow pipe (FRAM), grommet (fuelmiser), main crankcase pipe (genuine Ford sourced from the UK, as they’re really hard to source locally now). This pipe is often replaced with cheap pipes that can’t handle the pressure, plus variable size from one end to the other

• Main seal replaced (genuine Ford as I recall)

• All engine mounts (including the gearbox mount, that many seem to forget about)

• Serviced with Total Full Synthetic oil (correct Ford specification QUARTZ 9000 FUTURE FGC 5W-30), K&N oil filter, Mann air and Feb Bilstein cabin filters. Have a spare genuine Ford filter and air filter. Car run on 98 unleaded at all times

• Transmission fluid replaced

• Fuel filter (Valeo) replaced. Fuel pump was replaced by previous owner

• Clutch hasn’t been changed, but is in good condition still. You get to decide if you want to switch it to a single mass flywheel or not!

• Suspension: All shocks replaced with dust covers with front and rear top mounts (Monroe). Off side front control arm replaced (pretty sure it was offside), all main rear bottom bushings replaced. Rear sway bar/stabilser bushings replaced (all bushings are OE Lemforder). Have spare bushings as figured we’d replace all of them - there are a lot on the control blade rear system, but the ones on there are still fine. Originally replaced the springs with Eibachs (separate listing), but returned them back to the original OE ST170 springs, as they ride better and are more compliant than the Eibachs - Eibachs are great if you’re on your own, very flat and neutral, but remove a bit of the Focus character

• Front and rear brake rotors and pads replaced. (Mix of OE parts here Delphi/Lucas. Not a huge amount of choice in Oz for rotors)

• Pirelli Powergy 215/45R17s - regularly rotated. Just did another rotation and alignment on it

• New Delphi battery and corrosion on cables treated. Common issue on these as the battery ages, corrosion can spread through the connections to the cables

• Replaced wipers with Bosch

• Replaced speakers with Ford-fit Kenwoods

• Stereo replaced with Kenwood media player. Will provide original stereo as well, but only the radio works on it

• Managed to source the Thule specific roof rack for the 3 door Focus. New old stock, roof racks are tough to install on this car due to the rear windows not opening. Bike racks not included

Condition of the paint is pretty good. I’ve done a multi-stage paint correction on it. But there’s plenty of nicks and marks and little dents. But nothing major and no major oxidation on the panels. I garage it, and it doesn’t get driven that much (5,000kms/year since I bought it).

There’s two main negatives with it: firstly, it only has one key, but the Ford key isn’t hard to duplicate at any key cutter. Second is the driver’s door actuator is acting up. A common issue on the Ford. Means the remote locking is being inconsistent in locking both doors. Workaround is to use the key on the passenger side. Remote still opens the car. Not a massive job to replace it, but sourcing one from a wreckers is challenging. Rockauto do sell them in the US though.