The owner of this car got in touch with us and has provided details of this rare LS for our register. This is one of very few Iridium Green 998 LS cars produced in 1977/1978 in the lead up to the release of the 1275LS.
The current owner is now undertaking a full restoration of the car back to bare metal, and intends to restore it to its original specification.
A few more images just added showing how the restoration is progressing - looking good!
If you have a mini LS like this, sign up and add your car to the register or get in contact with us so we can add it! If anyone has history on this particular 998 LS, please comment below.
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Comments
oily rag 76
I have now put a set of R.O.H 10X6 wheels on it with the very hard to find matching centre caps, so I think that just about does it. I am very happy with how it turned out considering the amount of rust that I had to repair.
oily rag 76
Apart from a bit of fine fiddling here and there, I think this can be classed as finished now. The gold stripes on fitted, and they were not too hard to fit, and I am pleased with the quality of them. As for the plastic chrome edge finishers, I gave them away after trying hard to get them soft enough to bend where I needed. I just didn't need the frustration, so used the very easy to use pinchweld, and really, I'm happy with the result as I am not chasing concourse perfection. All in all a very rewarding excercise for this retired old fart with my limited resources at home.
oily rag 76
Its on the road at last, on the victorian club permit scheme. Now it is a case of 'fine tuning' as they politely call it. Ironing out the bugs that tend to show up when it is being driven after a major overhaul. I am estimating about 6 months to get it to where I am satisfied, especially with the colour coat/clear coat acrylic laquer paint system which is toally new to me. It is not as easy as people tell me, when I have always used the 2K acrylic enamel system (which cannot be used with a fine metallic colour). Iwil persevere with respraying and buffing til it is acceptable to me. The get up and go department is good for a 998, but the stopping part needs a fair bit of effort when you are ude to power assisted discs. Other small things to fix--the petrol guage has started reading full at all levels, when it used to behave itself to start with. Locating the base part of the passenger door mirror, which screws onto the door before attaching the mirror. All in all I am happy with the progress so far, and I intend to keep on enjoying it as I iron out the few little niggles that come along--it is a challenge and a hobby after all.
Global Classic Car Club
Looking good! Keep it up!
oily rag 76
Still trying to get all the electrics working. I have to say that the official Leyland workshop manual is the worst for lack of detail and information that I have ever come accross--and that includes many car and motorcycle manuals. The wiring diagrams are blurry where the colour code letters are on the diagram, and the diagrams only seem to go up to the Clubman and the GT--no mention of the S or the LS. There is a small appendix at the back which deals with the late model pollution control equipment and some of the later braking components, also synchromesh gearboxes.There are no drawings of where the reverse light switch is, nor the brake light switch, and barely a mention of the brake fail switch--which I thought for a while was the brake switch. As I said, compared to all my other manuals, this scores a generous 3 out of 10. I now feel a little bit better after this whinge! Oh yes, I have tried the internet but there seeme to be next to nothing out there to download regarding the 77 and 78 Clubman S and LS.
Global Classic Car Club
A shame they don't provide the information for the later cars in the books - I haven't relied on the books too much so wasn't aware how difficult it was / how bad they were. Keep battling on, hope you're almost through with the electrics!
oily rag 76
I was getting along nicely, overcoming a variety of problems, and then I got into the wiring. Someone had really changed things around in the engine bay area, put in 3 relays with wires going every whichway, with colours that made no sense. I ended up removing all this non standard stuff and decided to start again following the wiring diagram in the manual.I eventually found the heavy brown wire from the solenoid to the alternater--or what was left of it hidden in the taped up section of the loom that runs along the front of the engine bay. Gradually I now have most things working, but what I can't fix I will just have to resort to having it done by an auto elec.As an electritian, I make a good gardener. Been waiting a few weeks now for a few spare parts to complete the doors.
Global Classic Car Club
Great to hear of the progress, looking forward to the next update! Keep up the good work!
oily rag 76
Just for general information, I have just ordered a set of gold side stripes for my car, and yes Minisport in South Australia will do the 998LS text for me. The cost is $120 plus $20P+P.I think that is a reasonable price to pay for such an odball item.
Global Classic Car Club
Great, look forward to seeing them on the car
oily rag 76
Does anyone ouy there know where I can purchase a set of gold side stripes for my iridium green LS? The front suspension knuckles have now been done--first side took 3 days using WD40, lots of tapping down on the knuckle, lots of patience and 4 letter words before it came out. Second side took app 3 hours. This time heaps of WD 40 down the hollow trumpet first before fitting the spring compressor. More tapping and WD40 around the bottom of the trumpet, Then hitting down on the top edge of the ball and out it came--no cursing required.We learn as we go. Front ends all done now with new brake shoes and tie rod ends. Lots of headaches with some of the wiring areas, so splitting time on that with working on the doors. Good job I am not paying an hourly rate for all this.
Global Classic Car Club
Further to my below comment - looking at this car on the register, seems like they just went with what I assume would be the Minisport 1275LS stripes: http://classicregister.com/content/1977-leyland-mini-998-ls
Global Classic Car Club
Sounds like it's making good progress!
Regarding the stripes, I just checked and Minisport in South Australia state that they can produce stripes in gold (but do not confirm whether they can do "Mini LS" text, in place of "1275 LS" - nor do they confirm whether it is a direct match for the gold colour you are after for the 998LS. Either way, might be worth asking as it would save you a lot of hassle, despite costing a bit. here is the link: http://minisport.com.au/mini-ls-stickersa-side-decalsa-1275-ls-in-black-5-day-wait-upon-ordering
Other than with Minisport, I've unfortunately never seen them reproduced for sale in Gold. Assuming Minisport's gold colour is a good match, one option would be to have them make the stripes even if they can only say "1275 LS", and then ask them for some extra material, so you can make your own "Mini LS" text.
The other altrernative would be to produce your own from scratch. A while ago we found this link below to a template plan for the 1275 LS stripes, which would at least give you approximate dimensions for cutting the main shape out, but you would still have to make your own "Mini LS" text: http://media.photobucket.com/user/michaelbe1808/media/1275LSstripes.jpg.html?filters[term]=1275LS&filters[primary]=images&filters[secondary]=videos&sort=1&o=4
Let us know how you go
oily rag 76
I am replacing the knucles on the bottom of the front suspension trumpets, having made a spring compressor thanks to the internet 'how to' guides. Now how the heck do I get the old knuckle off the trumpet--it does not want to move. I have squirted wd 40 on it, and given it a few good taps, but it refuses to budge. Maybe I have to be patient and let the wd 40 work.Any clues would be welcome.
Global Classic Car Club
Hi, From my experience, it will just take time with the WD40.. Just had a quick look on a forum, and found this:
http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/271943-rubber-removal-from-trumpet/
Probably described what you have already been doing, but hopefully with a bit of manouvering, the parts should eventually separate. Let us know how you go.
oily rag 76
Yep, time, patience and WD40 and a bit of careful tapping downwards with a hammer and chisel (on the ball) and down it came. The $32 home made spring compressor was really good with no problems in that area.. New knuckle installed easily.Now for the drivers side.